A spectacular trail has just reopened ‘The Light to Light’
In May the incredible Light to Light track opened up after an extensive revamp from New South Wales National Parks. In celebration of this – I thought I’d share a personal tale of walking the Light to Light just before it opened.
The Light to Light track is nestled on the coast of Beowa National Park in Southern New South Wales. This pristine coastal track meanders through low eucalyptus forest, melaleuca forest, and into low coastal heathlands, a two-day, 32-kilometre journey along beach coves and an ever-changing environmental landscape. My eyes feasted on the wondrous wildlife, stark red granite cliffs, and thundering regrowth from the 2020 bushfires. The migration and whale watching in September are local entertainment, each captivating step. A friendly, undulating hike puppeteering the wildlife around every corner; we were in awe of the echidnas scurrying past our toes, wombats obnoxiously waddling into the bush and white-bellied sea eagles hunting above.
My friend and I poured out stories whilst pointing out the scenic views passing us by. Humpback whales playfully breaching, Australian fur seals swimming in the turquoise blue shore waves and boisterous waves smashing against the granite headlands.
We hiked 15 kilometres beginning at Boyds Tower a medieval-style building; historically an old lookout tower and landmark by day in the mid-1840s, once used for the whaling industry. Our hike began in the North through banksia woodlands and tea tree groves, with over 50 native mammals and 150 various bird species from Eastern Ground Parrots to Powerful Owls, our senses had spectacular scenes to take in.
A recently changed National Park name Beowa means ‘orca’ or ‘killer whale’ in Thaua language. Paying respects to the important connection between the park’s coastline and the spirit lives of its first inhabitants and the beliefs and cultural practises associated with the ocean and orcas.
The coast is historically significant saltwater country for Aboriginal groups, a place situated seasonally for fishing and hunting, moving between ceremonial and sacred places to escape the winter in the mountains. The tracks and routes formed a unique transcontinental trading system that existed here for millennia. It’s an arcadic stretch of coast where our footprints were the only ones left in the sand. More birds of prey are seen than any human walking along the track. The hike allowed us to soak in the contrasted colourful views backdropped behind tea trees and the incessant need to look back at the headlands we had passed were vibrant and alluring. Lace monitors showed us who owns the trails here and abalone shells left over in the coastal rock pools and caves immaculately placed behind bays so grand and full of historical Aboriginal stories.
We meandered past Moworray Point for lunch and a pin-pointed map stop as a campsite spot for next time and a swim to dive into. It had a similar quietness and Animalia kingdom of Western Australia’s southern coastline. We perched up on some grass for lunch; eating scrumptious sandwiches whilst being entertained by the migrating humpbacks doing flips and jumps. We camped at Bintangabee Bay for the night, a current reconstructed path had us car shuttling the 7 km of closed track from Saltwater Creek. We listened to the waves pounding against the nearby rocks. Munching on a pesto pasta to fill our tiresome bodies for sleep. Yarns flowed throughout the night, a cup of Bengal spice followed and the hazy pink sunset fell beneath the canopy above.
An easeful 8 kilometres on day two took our feet inland hopping across small rivers, by geological foldings of rock formations and sandstone cliffs. Bush fires from 2020 have germinated their seed exposing a new undergrowth contrasted against the burnt woodlands. A mosaic of banksia and she-oak, wattle scrub and stringy bark are dispersed throughout the track and a myriad of other fascinating marine life. The low heathland had the Green Cape Lighthouse rearing out majestically in the distance, snakes slid onto warmed tracks afar whilst the kangaroos gazed curiously upon us. With a history of shipwrecks sunken in the late 1800s and the end of a picturesque hiking trail, Green Cape lighthouse station met our eyes in the south.
The recent track upgrades are superb, making this grade 4 hike manageable and a must-do for anyone – even trail running along this stretch would be magical. A track for all year round, however, I highly recommend hiking in spring/autumn time with lower daytime temperatures of 21 degrees and cooler nights in the tent. The Light to Light is not only a pristine walking track but a nature classroom of history, knowledge and lore from Aboriginal people. The abundance of wildlife and minimal human footsteps reflect to me that this environment is thriving and idyllic. It’s a region of incessant beauty and captivation and it’s a national park is worth taking a trot through.
How do I get there?
Driving distance: 6.5 hours from Melbourne and Sydney or fly into the small airport of Merimbula.
How long does the Light to Light take?
This Grade 4 walk stretches 32 kilometres of the NSW Far South Coast near Eden, from the historic Boyds Tower to Green Cape Lighthouse, the southernmost lighthouse in the state.
What’s changed since it opened?
Part of NSW Great Walks – a network of multi-day walks offering world-class walking experiences – the NSW Government’s Regional Growth – Environment and Tourism Fund and NPWS poured $14.9 million into the Light to Light walk upgrade. This includes new campgrounds with 10 elevated hardwood sleeping platforms and toilets and realigned track sections for better views.
Where are the campgrounds?
Campgrounds accompanied by kangaroos, coastal beaches and other car campers include Saltwater Creek and Bittangabee Campground, for more seclusion on foot opt for Mowarry Point, Leather Jacket Bay or Hegartys Bay for fewer people around and more wild to soak in.
Where do I find out more & book?
For more information visit the NSW Parks Website.