The greatest hiking trail in Australia
Solo hiking the wildly remote and rugged Larapinta Trail
‘Look deeper into nature and you will understand everything better’ – Albert Einstein. I glanced at this quote before heading off for two weeks of solitude, amongst the sheer rugged mountains of the McDonnell Range. I certainly understood the wild, rough self and landscapes by the end of it all.
The Larapinta trail is a 223km hiking track set in the heart of Central Australia on Arrernte Country. The traditional owners the Arrernte people and their dreaming describes the creation of the region and its landmarks by three caterpillar beings – Ayepe-arenye, Ntyarlke and Utnerrengatye, that form the MacDonnell Ranges.
I felt small and insignificant just a dot on the isolated map of the Larapinta Trail for two weeks. My heart, mind and body were captivated by the oxidised colours of the land. Ghost gums backdropped by stark reds, breathtaking sunsets and dingoes howling nearby. Beaming colours that distracted the arduous and challenging physical feat of the trail. Photos just could not capture the essence of beauty on the Larapinta trail.
Days were filled with rigorous 15-30km hikes, never-ending switchbacks and wild, windy mountains top campsites, up rocky creek beds, over mountainous sections, through rivers, barren landscapes, weaving through valleys and over undulating hills of infinite trails, whilst the burnt sunsets farewelled another torturous day and left me wanting more each morning.
Dry camps were my favourite missions, usually atop a mountain, reading a book, cooking dinner overlooking dazzling arrays of pinks and yellows that made the mountains bounce off the earth. It’s in these quiet afternoons that I would listen to people’s stories, we would exchange tips for the track ahead, and since I was the only person seeming to come from the west, most east-travelling hikers gave me great tips. I had my only companion – a 25kg backpack, and my body certainly felt it on the trail.
I heard the dingoes early one morning setting off in the dark, one ring leader setting the other clan off like a domino effect down the ranges. It was majestic to hear such creatures so close. It let me know nature is really in charge in here.
The feeling on the Lara Pinta was powerful – wild land, wild ancestors, wild ways. I could feel the spirits around me, as I hiked with awe and tenacity.
My feet blistered, my toes struggling to hold me upright from being beaten against the rocks, flies hitching rides on the underside of my cap. Melting in the heat like I was. They took off to their next destination as I shooed them away irritably. Albeit the relentless swarm of flies, every mountain summit offered mesmerising and worthwhile view. The valleys came alive when the sun was above, long stretches of canyon and golden light hidden behind huge waves of rough mountainous landscapes.
Words can’t describe the hardship, beauty or absorbing experience on the trail, it can’t convey the connection you feel to that place, nor the appearing and disappearing desert and trail that fall behind and in front of you. It was the quiet, fleeting moments that stayed with me. I walked without technology for the trip. The beauty in this was connecting with strangers. We talked, made eye contact, and asked each other deep and authentic questions. We enjoyed dinner meals in intimate circles, over picnic tables and lying on the sand grain nature couches. I felt as though this was the world I wanted to be a part of, where technology didn’t exist, people communicated, conversations jumped from one poignant topic to another, people genuinely curious about one another and a deep gratitude was felt for the campsite interactions we shared.
My eyesight was consumed by the many patterns of cliffs, hills, mountains and rough angles that stuck out with grand confidence. The groups of finches that frolicked from out of trees, lizards basked in the sun on the pathways, eagles were chased by crows, herons flirted with the water’s edge and the stars at night were scattered bright as if photoshopped by the ancestors above.
Hiking on Arrernte Country, the trail hugs boundary lines to sacred sites not accessible to the public, but walking along dreaming tracks, I could feel a presence of the Arrernte people, the connectedness and grounding I felt was a deeply spiritually moving experience.
It’s a pretty spectacular trail that left my hiking boots torn and shredded from the sharp rocks. The days were long, hot, and the rough terrain kept me on high alert. It was June, and the balmy days and frosty nights made it even more glorious to be immersed in.
The last few days of the hike were relentless. Undulating hills, exposed sun, hardened feet and big 25-29km days. A podcast or two was getting me through by this point, and the small but significant interactions with strangers were moving me forward. On the last day, I left early in the dark, ecstatically shuffling my feet with every step. I trudged up the side of the saddle of a hill, the pinks pursing through the clouds and delivering me the soft lights of Alice Springs. I stopped and relished in this moment – it was a feeling of deep peace. This was what I wanted.
The last 8km were brutal. My legs were on autopilot, the last kilometre giving me a surge to finish. As I yee-hawed and squealed my way into Telegraph station, and then – nothing. Just silence, heavy breaths and the quiet, euphoric joy of having finished 223km of ridges, valleys and horizons.
The trail can be self-guided, running from West to East or East to West along the spines of the West Macdonnell Ranges. There are 12 sections with some accessible by road, and over 35 campgrounds to choose your adventure from. However, there are also wonderful guiding companies that can be utilised from Alice Springs.
It’s recommended that the Larapinta trail be tackled in the cooler months between April to October – anywhere from 12-18 days. It’s a truly unique hiking trail where incredible views over 1000m altitude, magnificent swimming spots, gorges to explore, and an awe-inspiring trail in the Central Australian desert. With an abundance of geology, ecology, history and spiritual significance, you can’t miss this trail! It’s one of Australia’s greatest hiking trails.
Sections
Section 12,11 & 10
Redbank Gorge, Finke River and Ormiston Gorge
Section 9, 8, & 7
Ormiston Gorge, Serpentine Chalet Dam, Serpentine Gorge, Ellery Creek
Section 6, 5, & 4
Ellery Creek, Hugh Gorge & Standley Chasm
Section 3, 2 & 1
Standley Chasm, Jay Creek, Simpsons Gap, Telegraph Station (Alice Springs)
Must have items
PLB, one set of hiking gear, emergency kit, hat, sunglasses, lightweight tent, sleeping bag, mat, walking poles, camera, printed map, dry bags, small towel, bathers, duct tape, trowel, crocs, hiking boots/trail runners, thermals, good dehydrated meals, cooking equipment, camel bak, positive attitude (for the hard parts).
Highlight spots
Ormiston Gorge, sunrise over Mt. Sonder, First light at Counts Point, meal at Ellery Creek, Standley Chasm explorations, Rocky Saddle lunch spot, Camping at Hilltop lookout and Serpentine Gorge bird watching.
Tips
There is a handful of food drop areas to restock or drop off unwanted goods. I highly recommend organising these and being advantageous with each food drop. You can choose to do smaller sections of the trail, walking early in the day to avoid the extreme heat is wise and download some audio books if you’re on the trail solo.